Planted 4/1 to 8/15

Bermuda grass is one of the most sun loving warm season lawn grasses.  Bermuda grass is the primary seed of choice for Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. customers and provides a quality turf grass lawn in the area.  Bermuda turf requires a minimum amount of lawn grass care, maintenance and mowing.

While Bermuda grass is best adapted to deep sandy loam and medium-textured soils, with appropriate management it can be grown on shallow, droughty soils. Bermuda grass can be extremely drought tolerant providing it is maintained properly. Bermuda grass will not tolerate waterlogged conditions. Like most grasses, it does best at a pH of 5.5 or above and is highly responsive to the application of nitrogen fertilizer; potassium (potash) is also important for forage growth and winter hardiness. Bermuda grasses will withstand wear and traffic, establish quickly, and recover rapidly from injury. It also can invade flower beds and other areas where they are not wanted because they have a strong above- and below- ground stem system. Bermuda grass performs best when mowed at ¾ to 1 inch with reel mower; however, good performance can be achieved using a rotary mower with sharp blades set as low as possible without scalping. Uneven terrain may prohibit Bermuda grass from being mowed as short as desired.

Soil fertility at establishment is essential to obtain a healthy and vigorous stand of Bermuda grass.  After planting, nitrogen should be applied at a rate of 30 to 50 pounds per acre when stolons have reached a length of 3 inches. A second application of 30 to 50 pounds N per acre can be applied 30 days later if adequate soil moisture is available. Good fertility at establishment will help reduce the time required for coverage.

Typically, Bermuda grass is established between April 1 and Aug 15 in the Raleigh NC area.

March through May

Mowing

Mow the lawn when it first turns green in the spring with a reel mower set at to 1 inch or a rotary mower set as low as possible without scalping. Mow before the grass gets taller than 1 ½ to 2 inches. Then practice grass cycling. Grass cycling is simply leaving grass clippings on your lawn. Grass clippings decompose quickly and can provide up to 25 percent of the lawn's fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, they can be collected and used as mulch. Whatever you do, don't bag them! Grass clippings do not belong in landfills.

Fertilizing

Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet several weeks after the grass turns green. The following year after Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. has established your lawn, submit a soil sample to determine nutrient and lime requirements.  To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 16-4-8 fertilizer, divide 100 by 16. The result is 6.25 pounds of product per thousand square feet: 100/16 = 6.25

Irrigation

Bermuda grass is a very drought tolerant but does need irrigated from time to time. On sandy soils it often requires more frequent watering, for example, 1/2 inch of water every fifth day.  A dark bluish gray color, foot printing, and wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest problems and environmental stress later in the summer.

Weed Control

Apply pre-emergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goose grass, and foxtail by the time the dogwoods are in full bloom. Apply post-emergence herbicides in May as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as knotweed, spurge, and lespedeza. Products containing two or three broadleaf herbicides usually control several different broadleaf weeds in a lawn more effectively. Be sure the product is labeled for use on Bermuda grass. Apply post-emergence herbicides only when weeds are present, and wait until three weeks after the lawn becomes green.

Insect Control

Check for white grubs and control them if necessary.

Thatch Removal

Vertically mow in May to remove the thatch (layer of un-decayed grass) after the lawn becomes green if the thatch is more than gtttttv½ inch thick.

June through August

Mowing

Follow the March through May mowing guidelines.

Fertilizing

Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet every 4 to 6 weeks using the March through May fertilizing guidelines.

Irrigation

Follow the March through May irrigation guidelines.

Insect Control

Follow the March through May insect control guidelines. August is the best time to control white grubs because they are small and close to the soil surface.

Weed Control

Apply post-emergence herbicides as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as knotweed, spurge, and lespedeza. Crabgrass, goose grass, Dallis grass, nutsedge, annual sedges, and sandbur can be controlled with post-emergence grass control herbicides. Two or three applications 7 to 10 days apart are required for effective control. Apply herbicides only when weeds are present, the grass is actively growing, and the lawn is not suffering from drought stress.

Thatch Removal

Vertically mow to remove the thatch if it is more than ½ inch thick. Thatch can be removed monthly if the lawn has sufficient time to recover.

September through November

Mowing

Mow the lawn following the March through May guidelines until several weeks before the first expected frost. Raise the mowing height 1 inch as winter approaches if the lawn will not be over seeded. Mowing height is usually raised in mid- to late September in the piedmont. Mowing height of lawns in the western and northwestern areas of the piedmont may be raised one to two weeks earlier, whereas mowing height in the south central and southeastern regions may be raised one to two weeks later.

Fertilization

Apply no more than 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet in September, four to six weeks before the first expected frost. Use a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer such as a 5-10-30, or supplement a nitrogen fertilizer source with 1 pound of potash(K₂O) using 1.6 pounds of muriate of potash (0-0-60), 2 pounds of potassium sulfate (0-0-50), or 5 pounds of sul-po-mag (0-0-22) per thousand square feet.

To determine the amount of product required to apply 1 pound of potash per thousand feet, divide 100 by the third number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 6-6-12 fertilizer, divide 100 by 12. The result is 8.3 pounds of product per thousand square feet:

100/12 = 8.3

Irrigation

Follow the March through May irrigation guidelines. Dormant Bermuda grass may need to be watered periodically when warm, windy weather prevails.

Weed Control

Apply pre-emergence or post-emergence herbicides as needed to control winter annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as chickweed and henbit. Pre-emergence herbicides do not control existing perennial weeds. Apply post-emergence herbicides only when weed are present. Do not apply herbicides designed to control annual bluegrass if the lawn is to be over-seeded with ryegrass.

Insect Control

Follow the March through May insect control guidelines.

• Attention to frequent and consistent watering is the most crucial element in insuring the success of your lawn.  For a minimum of 5 weeks after hydro seeding, the lawn should be kept moist by watering twice every day for at least 10 minutes each time.  The polymer will do the rest.

 

• Once the grass is approximately 3 inches tall, it is ready for the first cutting.  Be sure that the mower blades are sharp to guard against tearing the grass.  Torn or ripped grass is susceptible to attack by disease.  Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass at a time. 

 

• After the fifth week or the third mowing you will need to change water techniques.  Water should be cut back to twice weekly, preferably at day break, for 20 minutes.  This is to insure deep, solid root growth.  Once the grass is growing well, approximately 10 to 12 weeks, water only when needed. 

 

Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. recommends having a soil sampling done four to six months after your lawn is established to determine if further amenities are needed.   

 

 

Remember, watering is the most critical element in assuring that you will have a beautiful lawn.  Your lawn is like a new puppy, water and food are critical. 

 

Throughout the watering process, you will see the blue/green color disappear and it will look like soil again.  This is normal; we need the color for an even application.

 

For more information about grass and lawn care visit:

 

US Department of Agriculture                              North Carolina State University

 

Planted 4/1 to 7/31

People often ask me here at Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. to recommend a "no maintenance" grass. Unfortunately, there's no such thing — unless you want a lawn of artificial sports turf.

Closest to fitting the bill is centipede grass — a low-maintenance turf that tolerates neglect and that is why it is in my yard.

The slow-growing turf grass with medium green leaf blades and is well adapted to low-fertility conditions. It spreads by extending thick leafy runners (stolons) along the surface of the soil to form a dense mat of prostrate, low-growing stems and leaves. The individual leaf blades rarely grow more than four inches high.

Unlike most other warm season grasses according to NC State, centipede does not produce underground runners (rhizomes) and is therefore not as likely to invade other parts of the landscape. It has a medium wear tolerance, suitable for an average home lawn, but will wear down in heavy foot traffic areas.

Sometimes called "lazy man's grass" because it seems to thrive under minimal care, centipede grass is increasingly popular for home lawns with the right environment. It will not do well in heavy shade —Zoysia is a better choice for these places. Centipede tolerates medium shade and often grows better under light shade than in full sun. Sandy acidic soils of low fertility are best for centipede, but it also performs well in medium-heavy clays. It is not tolerant of flooding or poorly drained soils. Don't grow centipede grass in exposed areas near the beach — it doesn't tolerate salt and salt spray well.

Centipede grass requires little fertilizer after it is established. It will form heavy thatch in response to excessive nitrogen fertilization, but otherwise thatch is usually not a problem. If needed, apply no more than one pound of slow-release nitrogen per 1,000 square feet each spring. A complete formulation high in potassium (the third number on the bag) is best. Applying more nitrogen will not darken the grass.

Occasionally the color may become yellowish in spots, or over the entire lawn, as a result of iron chlorosis. This is almost always caused by an alkaline soil where pH is above 6.5. The condition is more common in clay soils high in calcium and phosphorus or in sandy soils with high amounts of crushed coral. Iron chlorosis can be temporarily corrected by applying chelated iron or iron sulfate. Lowering the soil pH with applications of powdered sulfur will take longer to see results but is a more permanent remedy.

Because of the slow vertical growth of its leaf blades, centipede grass can be mowed less often than most other grasses. Use a rotary mower at a cutting height of 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Mow enough to remove no more than one third of the leaf blade at each mowing. This could be weekly in the summer and every 14 to 18 days in the winter. Avoid close mowing, which will scalp the turf, leave large brown spots, and reduce the density and encourage weeds.

March-May

Mowing
Mow lawn at 1 to 1 ½ inch at time of initial green up. Mow before grass gets above 2 inches tall. Do not burn off centipede grass to remove excessive debris because of possible injury to the lawn and potential fire hazard.
Fertilizing

DO NOT apply nitrogen at this time. Yellow appearance may be an indication of iron deficiency. Spray iron (ferrous) sulfate (2 ounces in water per 1,000 sq. ft.) or a chelated iron source to enhance color as needed. Follow label directions.

Weed Control
Apply pre-emergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goose grass, and foxtail. Apply by the time that dogwoods are in full bloom. Apply post-emergence herbicides in May as needed for control of summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as knotweed, spurge, lespedeza, etc. Do not apply until 3 weeks after green up. Centipede grass is sensitive to certain herbicides (e.g. 2,4-D), so follow label directions and use with caution.

Insect Control
Check for white grubs and control if necessary.

Thatch Removal
Power rake (vertical mow) to remove thatch (layer of un-decayed grass) in late May if necessary. A 2- or 3-inch blade spacing set 1/4-inch deep in one direction works best. Do not use a power rake with 1-inch blade spacing as severe turf injury may result.
Renovation

Replant large bare areas in May using seed (1/4 to 1/2 pound per 1,000 sq. ft.). Mixing seed with 2 gallons of fine sand per 1,000 sq. ft. will aid in distribution. Germination is expected in 28 days but establishment is slow. Keep seedbed continually moist with light, frequent sprinklings several times a day to ensure good germination. Three years for complete establishment of a new lawn is not uncommon.

June-August

Mowing
Mow lawn at 1 to 1 ½ inch. Mow before grass gets above 2 inches tall.

Fertilizing
Fertilize with 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. (once a year) in mid-June using a high potassium fertilizer (e.g., 5-5-15, 6-6-12, 8-8-24). An additional fertilization in August may enhance performance in coastal locations. Fertilizers without phosphorus (e.g., 15-0-14, 8-0-24) are preferred if soils exhibit moderate-to-high levels of phosphorus. Yellow appearance may indicate an iron deficiency. Spray iron (ferrous) sulfate (2 ounces in water per 1,000 sq. ft.) or a chelated iron source to enhance color as needed. Follow label directions.
To determine amount of product required to apply 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft., divide 50 by the FIRST number on the fertilizer bag. Example: A 5-5-15 fertilizer. Dividing 50 by 5 = 10 pounds of product to be applied per 1,000 sq. ft. for 1/2 pound of nitrogen.

Mowing
Mow lawn at 1 to 1 ½ inch. Mow before grass gets above 2 inches tall. Raise mowing height to 2 inches several weeks before expected frost.

Fertilizing
Fertilize with 1 pound of potash (K2O) per 1,000 sq. ft. 4 to 6 weeks before expected frost using 1.6 pounds of muriate of potash (0-0-60) or 2 pounds of potassium sulfate (0-0-50).** DO NOT lime centipede grass unless recommended by soil test.
To determine amount of product required to apply 1 pound of potash per 1,000 sq. ft., divide 100 by the THIRD number on the fertilizer bag. Example: A 6-6-12 fertilizer. Dividing 100 by 12 = 8.3 pounds of product to be applied per 1,000 sq. ft. for 1 pound of potassium.

Insect Control
Check for white grubs and control if necessary.
 
December-February

Mowing
Remove lawn debris (rocks, sticks, and leaves). Do not burn off centipede grass to remove excessive debris because of possible injury to the grass and potential fire hazard.

Fertilizing
DO NOT fertilize centipede grass at this time. Submit soil samples for analysis every 3 years to determine nutrient requirements. Be sure to specify centipede grass. (Contact your county Extension Center for details.) Apply lime or sulfur if suggested (based on soil test) to raise or reduce soil pH respectively. DO NOT lime centipede grass unless recommended by soil test.

Weed Control
Apply broadleaf herbicides as necessary for control of chickweed, henbit, etc. Centipede grass is sensitive to certain herbicides (e.g., 2,4-D), so follow label directions for reducing rates, and use with caution. Selected herbicides (e.g., atrazine or simazine) can be applied in November or December for control of annual bluegrass (Poa annua) and several winter annual broadleaf weeds.
The use of trade names in this publication does not imply endorsement of the products named, nor criticism of similar ones not mentioned.

More About Centipede grass
Centipede grass is a slow-growing, apple-green, coarse-leafed turf grass that is adapted for use as a low maintenance, general purpose turf. It requires little fertilizer (l/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. per year), infrequent mowing, and grows well in full sun to moderate shade. It does not tolerate traffic, compaction, high-phosphorus soils, high pH, low-potassium soils, excessive thatch, drought, or heavy shade.
Centipede grass is susceptible to a number of pest-related problems. Symptoms include small circular dead areas after several years of good performance. Areas do not green up in the spring or begin to die in late spring or during drought stress. Grass at the edge of affected areas may yellow, wilt, and die. Possible causes include nematodes, ground pearls (an insect), and fairy ring (a disease). Nematode damage appears as weak areas invaded by weeds. If nematodes are suspected, submit a soil sample for analysis. Ground pearls appear as circular dead areas with only weeds growing in the center. Fairy rings appear as circular green or dead areas that continue to enlarge for several years. Injury from certain broadleaf weed control herbicides and mismanagement can also display these symptoms. Following proper lawn management practices, as discussed in this publication, is the best means of preventing and controlling centipede grass problems. Continual loss of centipede grass may indicate the need to choose another grass species. Contact your county Extension Center for assistance if needed.
Maintenance programs provided by professional lawn care service companies may differ from recommendations given here yet be equally effective.
DISCLAIMER: Recommendations for the use of agricultural chemicals are included in this publication as a convenience to the reader. The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does not imply endorsement by Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. Individuals who use agricultural chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current regulations and conforms to the product label. Be sure to obtain current information about usage regulations and examine a current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact your county Cooperative Extension Service agent.

 

• Attention to frequent and consistent watering is the most crucial element in insuring the success of your lawn.  For a minimum of 5 weeks after hydro seeding, the lawn should be kept moist by watering twice every day for at least 10 minutes each time.  The polymer will do the rest.

 

·        Once the grass is approximately 2 ½ inches tall, it is ready for the first cutting.  Be sure that the mower blades are sharp to guard against tearing the grass.  Torn or ripped grass is susceptible to attack by disease.  Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass at a time.

 

After the fifth week or the third mowing you will need to change water techniques.  Water should be cut back to twice weekly, preferably at day break, for 20 minutes.  This is to insure deep, solid root growth.  Once the grass is growing well, approximately 10 to 12 weeks, water only when needed. 

 

Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. recommends having a soil sampling done four to six months after your lawn is established to determine if further amenities are needed. 

 

Remember, watering is the most critical element in assuring that you will have a beautiful lawn.  Your lawn is like a new puppy, water and food are critical.

 

Both Centipede and Zoysia grasses are the most slowing establishing grass in this region.  As a cliché; ‘First year it sleeps; second year it creeps; and the third year it leaps’.  This being said, ’Be Patient’.     

 

Throughout the watering process, you will see the blue/green color disappear and it will look like soil again.  This is normal; we need the color for an even application.

 

For more information about grass and lawn care visit:

 

US Department of Agriculture                North Carolina State University

 

Planted: 4/1 to 5/31 or 8/15 to 10/15

Tall Fescue, a Cool-season grass that grows well during the cool (60 to 75 °F) months of the year. They may undergo stress, become dormant or be injured during the hot months of summer and may require significantly more water than the warm-season grasses. They are adapted to the upper regions of the state and will not grow well along the coast.

Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) is perhaps the most popular grass in the mountains. Its popularity relates to its ease of establishment through seeding and its green color during the winter months when warm-season turf grasses are dormant and brown. All of the species adapted to North Carolina can be planted by seed, the most economical method of establishing a lawn. Tall fescue is a perennial bunch-type grass that grows rapidly during spring and fall. Because of this bunch-type growth, spring pre-emergence herbicides are generally necessary to keep a lawn relatively free of weeds. Tall fescue is adapted to a wide range of soil conditions but grows best on fertile, well-drained soils with a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5. It often needs irrigation to remain attractive during the summer. Established tall fescue lawns tend to thin out and become “clumpy” and may need annual reseeding every fall, especially in areas where it’s poorly adapted.

Kentucky-31 (K-31) is the old, common cultivar or variety of tall fescue. Most of the new and more attractive cultivars are referred to as “turf-type” tall fescues and have a slightly finer leaf blade, lower growth habit, darker green color and greater density and shade tolerance than K-31. Therefore, if properly managed, these new cultivars provide alternatives to K-31.

The confusion between tall fescue and fine fescue was increased by the introduction of turf-type tall fescues that are frequently promoted as fine-leaved. It is important to know the difference between tall fescue and fine fescue. The tall fescues have wider leaf blades and better tolerance to North Carolina environmental conditions than fine fescues. The fine fescues such as red fescue have extremely fine leaves, are suited to low fertility, low maintenance, and shaded situations. However, they generally do not perform as well as tall fescues in North Carolina.

Mowing

Tall fescue should be 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches tall after mowing. As a general guideline, try to mow often enough that no more than one-third of the grass height is cut. Then practice grass cycling . Grass cycling is simply leaving grass clippings on your lawn. Grass clippings decompose quickly and can provide up to 25 percent of the lawn's fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, they can be collected and used as mulch. Whatever you do, don't bag them! Grass clippings do not belong in landfills.

Fertilizing

The best way to determine your lawn's nutrient needs is by a soil test. The North Carolina Department of Agriculture, Agronomic Division, provides free soil testing. In the absence of a soil test, use a complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (that is, 12-4-8 or 16-4-8). Fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen (N) per thousand square feet in mid-September and again in November (about the time the grass is green but not actively growing).

Irrigation

Water to a soil depth of 4 to 6 inches. Probe with a screwdriver to determine moisture depth. Tall fescue needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water. On sandy soils it often requires more frequent watering— for example, 1/2 inch of water every third day. It is often necessary to irrigate an area for 3 to 5 hours to apply 1 inch of water. (It requires 640 gallons of water to deliver 1 inch of water per thousand square feet.) Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait l/2 hour until the water has been absorbed, and then continue irrigating until the desired depth or amount is obtained. A dark bluish gray color, foot printing, and wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest problems and environmental stress later in the summer.

Weed Control

Apply broadleaf herbicides to control dandelions and other weeds if necessary. Caution: Some herbicides may affect newly seeded turf. Follow label directions.

Insect Control

Check for white grubs in September and October and control them if necessary.

Aerification

Core lawns subject to heavy traffic or on clay soils to minimize compaction and improve rooting. Break up plugs.

Thatch Removal

It is not necessary to remove thatch.

Mowing

Remove lawn debris (rocks, sticks, and leaves). Mow lawn at 3 inches and remove clipping debris at spring green up. Mow before grass gets taller than 5 inches. Practice grass cycling —leave clippings on the lawn.

Fertilizing

Fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet in February. In absence of soil test results, use a complete (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio.

Irrigation

Water, if needed, to prevent excessive drying. About 1 inch of water per application each week is adequate.

Weed Control

Apply broadleaf herbicides as necessary for control of chickweed, henbit, or other weeds.

Aerification

Delay coring until fall.

Thatch Removal

It is not necessary to remove thatch.

• Attention to frequent and consistent watering is the most crucial element in insuring the success of your lawn.  For a minimum of 5 weeks after hydro seeding, the lawn should be kept moist by watering twice every day for at least 10 minutes each time.  The polymer will do the rest.

 

·        Once the grass is approximately 4 inches tall, it is ready for the first cutting.  Be sure that the mower blades are sharp to guard against tearing the grass.  Torn or ripped grass is susceptible to attack by disease.  Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass at a time.

 

• After the fifth week or the third mowing you will need to change water techniques.  Water should be cut back to twice weekly, preferably at day break, for 20 minutes.  This is to insure deep, solid root growth.  Once the grass is growing well, approximately 10 to 12 weeks, water only when needed. 

 

Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. recommends having a soil sampling done four to six months after your lawn is established to determine if further amenities are needed. 

 

Remember, watering is the most critical element in assuring that you will have a beautiful lawn.  Your lawn is like a new puppy, water and food are critical. 

 

Throughout the watering process, you will see the blue/green color disappear and it will look like dirt again.  This is normal; we need the color for an even application.

 

For more information about grass and lawn care visit:

 

US Department of Agriculture

North Carolina State University

 

Also known as Eragrostis curvula. Weeping Love grass is a warm season, perennial bunchgrass.  It grows to a height of 2-4 feet and has 1/4" leaves of 10 to 20 inches in length.  The long folding leaves suggest is name "weeping".  Seed heads are erect or drooping and produce small very numerous seeds (1.5 million per lb.).   Weeping Love grass is established easily.  Over a years’ time a single plant can grow to a diameter of 12-15 inches.  Love grass was imported from South Africa in the late 1920's.

Weeping Love grass grows best in the Southern Great Plains areas including Texas, Oklahoma, Arizona, and in the Southern parts of New Mexico, Nevada and California (east of mountains).  Grows on almost any well-drained soil, but prefers the sandy loams; also will grow on low fertility soils.  Love grass responds well to fertilization.  Used for pasture (early spring / fall), hay, erosion control and for steep bank areas throughout Western Plains and also used in transition zone of Eastern USA primarily for forage and erosion control

 

There is little to no maintenance for Weeping Love Grass.  It is an ornamental grass that needs only a little furtilizer yearly.

• Attention to frequent and consistent watering is the most crucial element in insuring the success of your Love Grass.  For a minimum of 5 weeks after hydro seeding, the area should be kept moist by watering twice every day for at least 10 minutes each time.  The polymer will do the rest.

After the fifth week you will need to change water techniques.  Water should be cut back to twice weekly, preferably at day break, for 20 minutes.  This is to insure deep, solid root growth.  Once the grass is growing well, approximately 10 to 12 weeks, water only when needed. 

 

 

Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. recommends having a soil sampling done four to six months after your grass is established to determine if further amenities are needed. 

 

Remember, watering is the most critical element in assuring that you will have a beautiful lawn.  Your lawn is like a new puppy, water and food are critical.

 

Throughout the watering process, you will see the blue/green color disappear and it will look like soil again.  This is normal; we need the color for an even application.

 

For more information about grass and lawn care visit:

 

US Department of Agriculture                North Carolina State University

 

Planted 4/1 to 8/15

Zoysia grasses grow best during the warm (80 to 95 °F) months of spring, summer and early fall. They grow vigorously during this time and become brown and dormant in winter. They are adapted to the most of the state and are some of the most cold-tolerant of the warm-season grasses.

These grasses form an excellent turf when properly established and managed. For the best appearance, Zoysias require cutting with a reel mower, although a rotary mower with sharp blades is satisfactory. They also require occasional watering and periodic thinning or dethatching. Once this grass is established, thatch can build up, especially when heavily fertilized. Remove thatch every two to three years.

The Zoysias form a dense, attractive turf in full sun and partial shade, but often thin out in dense shade. Most Zoysias grow very slowly compared to other grasses. Establishment is slow as well but will cover completely in two growing seasons if watered and fertilized properly. However, it may require several years to cover if not properly maintained. As it is a slow grower, it requires less frequent mowing than some other grasses. It will, however, recover slowly from damage due to its slow growth habit.

Zoysia japonica is sometimes called Japanese or Korean lawn grass or common Zoysia. It has coarse leaf texture, excellent cold tolerance and it can be seeded.

Zenith is a hybrid Zoysia that is available as seed. It has a medium dark green color, a medium density, and will tolerate light shade. It is planted in late spring to early summer with a seeding rate of 1 to 2 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet.

The seed will germinate in ten or more days. Gradually reduce watering frequency, but give the lawn longer soakings to establish the new grass root system.

In general, the Zoysias are slow to cover completely (thus more costly to establish), less drought-tolerant than Bermuda grass, and recommended for lawn use only when the homeowner is willing to provide the required maintenance.

March through May

 

Mowing

Mow the lawn when it first turns green in the spring using a reel mower set at 3/4 to 1 inch or a rotary mower set as low as possible without scalping the lawn. Mow before the grass grows taller than 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Recycle nutrients by not collecting clippings unless they are unsightly or in clumps.

 

Fertilizing

Apply 1/2 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet three weeks after the grass turns green. In absence of a soil test, use a complete (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (for example, 12-4-8 or 16-4-8). Submit a soil sample to determine nutrient requirements, if you haven't already. (Contact your county Agricultural Extension agent for details.) Apply lime if suggested.

 

To determine the amount of product required to apply 1/2 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet, divide 50 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 5-5-15 fertilizer, divide 50 by 5. The result is 10 pounds of product per thousand square feet.

 

Irrigation

Water to a soil depth of 4 to 6 inches. Probe with a screwdriver to determine moisture depth. Zoysiagrass needs a weekly application of 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water. On sandy soils, it requires more frequent watering, for example, 1/2 inch of water every third day. It is often necessary to irrigate an area for three to five hours to apply 1 inch of water. (It takes 620 gallons of water to apply 1 inch of water per thousand square feet.) Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate these areas until runoff occurs; wait one-half hour until the water has been absorbed, and then continue irrigating until the desired depth or amount is obtained. A dark, bluish gray color, footprinting, and wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest problems and environmental stress later in the summer.

 

Weed Control

Apply preemergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goosegrass. and foxtail by the time the dogwoods are in full bloom. Apply postemergence herbicides in May as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as knotweed, spurge, and lespedeza. Products containing two or three broadleaf herbicides are usually more effective in controlling several different broadleaf weeds in a lawn. Be sure the product is labeled for use on zoysiagrass. Apply only if weeds are present and wait until three weeks after the grass turns green. (See Agricultural Extension Service publication AG-408, Pest Control Recommendations for Turfgrass Managers.)

 

Insect Control

Check for white grubs and control them if necessary. (See White Grubs in Turf, ENT/ORT-67, AG-366).

 

Thatch Removal

Vertically mow after the grass turns green to remove thatch if it is more than 1/2 inch thick. Do not attempt to remove too much thatch at one time because zoysiagrass has a slow recovery rate. It may take several years to get thatch under control.

 

Renovation

Replant large bare areas using sod or plugs planted on 6- or 12-inch centers. (See Carolina Lawns, AG-69.) Applying a preemergence herbicide that does not interfere with root growth after plugging helps prevent weed encroachment.

 

 

June through August

 

Mowing

Follow the March-May mowing guidelines

 

Fertilizing

Apply 1/2 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet in late June or early July and repeat in mid-August using March-May fertilizer guidelines.

 

Irrigation

Follow the March-May irrigation guidelines.

 

Weed Control

Apply postemergence herbicides as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as knotweed, spurge, and lespedeza. Do not apply postemergence herbicides unless weeds are present, grass is actively growing, and the lawn is not suffering from drought stress. Crabgrass, goosegrass, dallisgrass, nutsedge, annual sedges, and sandbur can be controlled with postemergence grass control herbicides. Two or three applications 7 to 10 days apart are required for effective control. Zoysiagrasses are sensitive to these compounds so select the application carefully. (See Agricultural Extension Service publication Pest Control for Professional Turfgrass Managers, AG-408.)

 

Insect Control

Follow the March-May insect control guidelines. August is the best time to control grubs because they are small and close to the soil surface.

 

Thatch Removal

Vertically mow in June using the March-May thatch removal guidelines.

 

 

September through November

 

Mowing

Mow the lawn using the March-May guidelines.

 

Fertilization

Fertilize with 1 pound of potash (K₂O) using 1.6 pounds of muriate of potash (0-0-60), 2 pounds of potassium sulfate (0-0-50), or 5 pounds of sul-po-mag (0-0-22) per thousand square feet.

 

To determine the amount of product required to apply 1 pound of potash per thousand feet, divide 100 by the third number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 6-6-12 fertilizer, divide 100 by 12. The result is 8.3 pounds of product per thousand square feet: 100/12 = 8.3

 

Irrigation

Follow the March-May irrigation guidelines. Dormant zoysiagrass may still need to be watered periodically when warm, windy weather prevails.

 

Weed Control

Apply preemergence or postemergence herbicides as needed to control winter annual and perennial broadleaf weeds such as chickweed and hen bit. Preemergence herbicides will not control existing perennial weeds. Apply postemergence herbicides only when weeds are present. (See Agricultural Extension Service publication Pest Control for Professional Turfgrass Managers, AG-408.)

 

Insect Control

Follow the March-May insect control guidelines.

 

 

December through February

 

Mowing

Follow the March-May mowing guidelines. Zoysiagrass need not be mowed when dormant.

 

Fertilization

Do not fertilize.

 

Irrigation

Dormant zoysiagrass may need to be irrigated periodically to prevent desiccation especially when warm, windy weather prevails.

 

Weed Control

Apply broadleaf herbicides as necessary to control chickweed, henbit, and hop clover. Selective herbicides can be applied in November or December to control annual bluegrass (Poa annua) and several annual broadleaf weeds. Apply postemergence herbicides only when weeds are present. (See Agricultural Extension Service publication Pest Control for Professional Turfgrass Managers, AG-408.)

 

• Attention to frequent and consistent watering is the most crucial element in insuring the success of your lawn.  For a minimum of 5 weeks after hydro seeding, the lawn should be kept moist by watering twice every day for at least 10 minutes each time.  The polymer will do the rest.

 

·        Once the grass is approximately 2 ½ inches tall, it is ready for the first cutting.  Be sure that the mower blades are sharp to guard against tearing the grass.  Torn or ripped grass is susceptible to attack by disease.  Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass at a time.

 

After the fifth week or the third mowing you will need to change water techniques.  Water should be cut back to twice weekly, preferably at day break, for 20 minutes.  This is to insure deep, solid root growth.  Once the grass is growing well, approximately 10 to 12 weeks, water only when needed. 

 

Carolina HydroSeeding, Inc. recommends having a soil sampling done four to six months after your lawn is established to determine if further amenities are needed. 

 

Remember, watering is the most critical element in assuring that you will have a beautiful lawn.  Your lawn is like a new puppy, water and food are critical.

 

Both Centipede and Zoysia grasses are the most slowing establishing grass in this region.  As a cliché; ‘First year it sleeps; second year it creeps; and the third year it leaps’.  This being said, ’Be Patient’.     

 

Throughout the watering process, you will see the blue/green color disappear and it will look like soil again.  This is normal; we need the color for an even application.

 

For more information about grass and lawn care visit:

 

US Department of Agriculture                North Carolina State University